J3D Tech's Boxes of Calibration V4

Sick of all the validation tests that are up to opinion? This test is pass fail and needs no external input.

This test is designed to be used with or without digital calipers. However it’s best if you have them. Like many calibration tests, curing is not required.

See this guide on how to read them
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#bookmark=id.9ycniz31fm3g

First, the type of resin and the printer you're using are your largest limiters. Not all resins are designed to do the same thing.

The Objective isn't get all the pillars. The objective is get as many pillars as you can. (This makes up for the point listed above.)

The more you increase the UV exposure time, the more pillars you can theoretically print.

But of course as you increase the UV exposure time, you allow the resin to bloom more and become less accurate. This game of tug-of-war is what makes boxes a very unique calibration method. Because there is a validation point, the boxes. You don't get to be naughty by increasing the UV exposure time to force all the pillars to print.

Instead, you must consider! What are other things that can increase accuracy, so that I can increase the UV exposure time, so I can get more pillars?

Here is a list of things that affect the print quality in order of impact.

Resin settings:
Light off delay (wait before print)
Temps
Retract speed
Lift speed
Lift height

Physical aspects of the printer:
XY um of the LCD
Extra screen protector will greatly negatively impact quality. (The big ones that cover the entire printer offer the best protection, at largest impact of quality.)
nFEP vs ACF (nFEP is more accurate)
Condition/ cleanliness of the release film and or LCD. (Depends on how bad the condition.)
Anything that could be causing the printer to be unstable or add excessive vibration. (Depends on how much vibration.)

Each can only be tuned in or addressed so much, each has diminishing returns.

I have done a LOT of work to provide starting settings on most printers and resin. However there are so many variables, how far you want to push them is up to you! However the Boxes cant lie, they will not allow you to push further than is possible for your resin, or other conditions. This can even be useful to find and resolve underlying issues you did not even know you had! I do this all the time for users I assist.

All of this is why the objective isn't get all the pillars to print. It's just to get as many as you can under realistic conditions.

Finally, this may seem like a lot at first. But once you do it a few times it's gets very easy.

Also once you do it for a printer and resin, you can pretty much use that setting forever.
If the temps change more then 4c or you alter the layer height you will need to do it again. However I have found the ONLY thing you need to alter is the UV exposure time. Average attempts is 2-3 prints.

Lift Speed 40-60mm/m
Retract Speed - 40-60mm/m
Light off delay - 1s
Burn in layers - 4
Transition layer - 4